BlogMedia Contacts: Suzanne Quinn | Glow Communications | Tel.: 207-781-2598 | squinn.glow@me.com
January 2010
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Hair's How Magazine
Blades Of Glory
#1 PRIORITY: 58-62 on the HRC
Not too hard, not too soft, but JUST RIGHT. Just as Goldilocks had to choose her mattress, the hardness of the blades as measured by the Rockwell Hardness Scale or HRC (also simply called the Rockwell scale). Your ideas scissors should be rated between 58-62 on the HRC. This rating will be indicated on the package when you purchase your scissors.
If the rating of the metal is below this four-point range, the blades won't hold an accurate edge. If it's harder than 58-62 HRC, it will be too fragile to withstand grinding (sharpening), and may even be brittle enough to shatter!
January 2010
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Hair's How Magazine
Blades Of Glory Cont.
#2 PRIORITY: ACCURATE ANGLE
The cutting edge of your shears should be about 50 degrees. If the angle is greater, you'll feel like you're "chopping" or sawing through the hair. If the angle is lower, you'll feel like you're "folding" the hair. All of these sensations are danger-signs that you will not have sufficient control over the tool to give the consistently great cut that your clients expect and deserve.
The 'run' of the scissors should feel effortless. The blades should close softly, and yet be able to easily stay open in any position. Sam Villa, Founding Partner and Chairman of Allvus and Education Artistic Director for Redken 5th Avenue NYC, designs his own professional collection of shears, the Sam Villa Signature Series. He comments, "When selecting any tool, pause and ask yourself, is it cofortable in my hand? The moment you place a tool in your hand you will know if it can work for you or not. My shears with their offset handles and other features are all about ergonomics for less fatigue on the thumb, wrist and tendon."
#3 PRIORITY: FINE-TUNING
A fixed or moveable support or amplifier for the little finger helps to balance the shears and reduce effort during cutting. Look for shears with an adjusting screw with bearings, so that the tightness may be kept accurate at all times. If your shears have a "screw loose", so to speak, the shears "bite" into the hair, leaving a ragged edge. Also look for replaceable rubber rings which insert into the finger-holes of your shear for a perfect fit.
As basics, Villa recommends that every stylist own a 7" dry cutting shear (his designs feature longer, larger blades to reduce constant sharpening costs) and reversible blending shears to extract weight from hair.
Your shears will come with manufacturer's instructions about cleaning, sharpening and oiling, and many scissors are even sold with their own special lubricant to make their maintenance easy. The first step is selecting the best possible pair you can find - they are an investment in your own excellence, and in your processional future.
January 2010
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Hair's How Magazine
Don't Skimp On Crimp
Sam Villa, Redken, creates this "Tail Curl" by wrapping strands of hair around one of his Sam Villa Signature Series Tail Comb, then clamping the wrapped handle with his SLEEKR® flat iron. This spring, try using your flat iron to create multi-textured looks. A low-tech alternative: dampen your hair with a spray bottle before bed. Divide hair into several sections, braid tightly, and sweet dreams. In the morning, release braids for natural crimp. The more braids you make, the tighter the wave-pattern. Hair this spring should feel boho and "born free" (check out Sam Villa's wild lioness look, too!).
January 2010
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Self Magazine
beautyFLASH
Straight up A flatiron session shouldn't leave your hair limp. To get a sleek look that's bouncy, position a round brush beneath a small section of dry hair. Next, place the iron directly in front of the brush, clamp hair and run it down to ends, trailing the brush behind. Hair will assume the curved shape of the brush, creating volume, says Sam Villa, a stylist in New York City. For a visual, go to Self.com/beauty to see SELF staffers do it.
