HAIRSTYLE Magazine
shags are it!

The shag is everywhere these days, according to stylist Sam Villa, an Education Artistic Director for Redken 5th Avenue. "The modern shag can be short, medium or long; it works best with fine to medium hair textures. Everyone from Ellen DeGeneres (short) to Kristen Stewart (medium) to Ashlee Simpson Wentz (long) can pull it off, but styling is key," says Villa. Here are his shag styling secrets:

New shapes have more weight around the perimeter and sink in the nape area—this plays up the head shape, as seen on Kristen Stewart. That's why they look best when styled with a root lifter or volumizing spray. For height at the base, Villa recommends Redken rootful 06 root lifting spray.

Want to bring layers to life? Try either Redken layer lift 07 volumizing spray or Redken aerate 08 bodifying cream mousse. To style, work a root lifter into damp hair at the base, then apply an additional body-builder from mid-shaft to ends. Finally, blast with a blow-dryer and style with hands to seal the deal. "Think controlled chaos," summarizes Villa. Visit samvilla.com for more styling tips.

Salon Magazine
Sharpen Up

Whether you're a student or a seasoned professional, we dish on finding the best shears for you.

Craving something new...

My favourite shear at the moment is the Sam Villa Signature Series 7" Dry Cutting Shear. Right now, the looks I'm cutting require larger sections of hair to be cut, so I need a larger, heavier-weighted shear to cut cleanly through the mass of hair while still creating soft, gentle edges. I love these shears because they are versatile—they can be used on wet and dry hair—and the forward set thumb reduces repetitive stress injuries."
—Sam Villa, education artistic director for Redken and Chairman of Allvus LLC

Behindthechair.com The Art & Business Issue
In the Mood

Prepping for a photo shoot can be overwhelming for some stylists, so Sam Villa recommends using a mood board to clarify your goals and communicate your vision to other participants in the shoot. "My new DVD is called The Bardot," he explains, "and the first thing I did when preparing for the cover shoot was to Google Brigitte Bardot. I studied all of the images, paying close attention to the hair, makeup, wardrobe, body language and characteristics." Next, Sam jotted down the words and phrases that came to mind as he was doing his research, words like "textured volume," "sex kitten," "sexy not sleazy," "come hither," "vintage yet modern." Then he hit the fashion magazines, finding inspiration in collections that featured gathered fabrics that created texture. "I thought about the kind of haircut I could create based on that kind of texture," says Sam, who gathered his images and content, affixed it all to a board, assessed the result and felt good about his direction. "I used the board on set while shooting the images for the DVD cover and then scanned it into my computer to use as a resource," says Sam, who has since referred to the digital version of the mood board on location, on the road and anytime he needs inspiration.

Want to create your own mood boards?

1. Start by jotting down key points, ideas and concepts on a piece of paper.
2. Flip through inspirational magazines like Italian Vogue, V and BOMB and rip out images relating to step #1. Remember, there are no boundaries, so tear out anything that evokes a feeling or inspires you. You can also go online and Google your topic and print out images you like. Don't worry about being too organized–when it comes to creativity, the more chaotic the better.
3. Edit the visuals down to those you find most appealing, realistic and that relate to the subject. Affix them to poster board with Prestik, a reusable adhesive that allows you to change or move images without tearing them.
4. Attach key words and phrases to your board.
5. When the board is complete, brief all other participants before the shoot, show or other project to help them prepare.
6. On the day of the shoot, show, etc., post the mood board where everyone can see it and start the session with a review to keep everyone on point.

Behindthechair.com The Art & Business Issue
The Bardot Cut

Part innocent, part sultry nymphet, '50s French screen siren Brigitte Bardot inspired Sam Villa's latest collection. Aptly named "Bardot," the looks are heavily influenced by the starlet's luscious blonde, carelessly fastened upsweeps and her sensual insouciance. Here is one of the foundational cuts from the collection.

Behindthechair.com The Art & Business Issue
The Bardot Cut Finished Look

The Bardot finished look.

Hair: Sam Villa
Photographer: Nico Illiev
Makeup: Jameson Kirkland
Stylist: Tammy Eckenswiller
Producer: Emmanuel New York