How do YOU cut the perimeter of a Bob? Do you use two fingers to hold the section of the hair, the comb to brace the hair or do you use a single finger or the edge of your palm to hold the hair against the skin? When we speak about cutting ‘one-length’ what we really want to do is cut the hair at the lowest elevation possible at the hair’s natural fall. So, which one is the correct technique?
At Sam Villa we think there is a purpose for everything and we want to make sure you have all the information to make the best decision. There is no right or wrong technique for cutting all one-length. While all three options are beneficial, it’s important to understand the end result each technique will give us.
Tool of choice:
- Professional Long Cutting Comb: Ivory for dark hair/Black for light hair.
- Professional 6.25" Wet Cutting Shear.
Option #1-Using two fingers to hold your section-Maximum tension with slight elevation
Cutting a perimeter with sections held between our fingers will result in slight elevation with texture at the perimeter. A bit of elevation from holding on to the section with the fingers is going to give us a softer line. Think about it- we bring the hair out of its natural fall by actually picking up the hair and placing it in between two fingers-it is elevated by the circumference of your middle finger. When the section is released the hair pops back into natural fall adding an element of softness. Make sense?
When the hair goes back into natural fall, you may have some clean up to deplete any stray hair as the section will pop back to the natural growth pattern of the hairline. Not to worry though; you already have your defined line so just clean it up. Refrain from cutting into the line you already established otherwise you will deplete the line you were going for.
Option #2-Using a comb to hold your section-No tension, no elevation
Notice the use of the Ivory Cutting Comb and the contrast between the hair and the comb itself; we have a very clear visual on what we are about to cut.
Cutting a perimeter section and using a comb to brace your section will result in the utmost blunt line. No tension or elevation is used as the comb is the brace to hold on to the hair as opposed to holding the hair between two fingers. The comb is placed into the hair with the wide teeth and gives us a nice straight line to follow.
The end result with this technique is a crisp strong line as every hair is cut the same length. You will have minimal if no refinement needed once your section(s) is cut.
Option #3-Finger brace against the skin-Slight undercut
This technique proves to be extremely beneficial when cutting short Bobs and primarily used with the first section of the hairline. When we brace the hair with our finger (some may use the outside of the palm) we create a slight undercut. The hair is pressed up against the nape of the neck pushing the very underneath hair slightly upward-elevation in the opposite direction of using two fingers to hold your section. Once released, the section comes back to natural fall with a clean crisp line.
This technique is especially beneficial for a final refinement if you cut sections using two fingers and/or if you use a comb to hold your sections. Holding the perimeter down against the skin will enable you to really see any excess hair that may need to be taken off for a clean perimeter.
Whatever technique you hold as your own, be open to practicing all three techniques to witness all results. Keep your options open. Knowing all three techniques will make you a stronger designer and isn’t that what we all want for ourselves? To become better and stronger with each new lesson we learn. We will keep the techniques coming, stay tuned!