Adding Face Framing Layers to Fine Hair to Accentuate Facial Features

Our fine and thinning hair clients deserve a cut that will bring out their best facial features; after all, her face is what she is going to see in the mirror everyday.  If we can bring the look of density to the facial frame of the cut we know our clients are going to love what they see in the mirror as an end result as well as every day at home.

Recommended Tools for Success

Recommended Styling Products for Success

  • Redken wax blast 10 impact finishing spray.

How To Create Face Framing Layers That Accentuate Certain Facial Features

We may tend to elevate up and cut certain lines around the face resulting in layers that fall away from the face.  Our end result?  The hair is less dense and the ends are light and wispy.  Our fine and thinning haired clients who want face framing cuts are looking for more definition and blunt lines that give the appearance of thicker hair.

Instead of elevating, we can create defined pieces by free hand – selecting pieces at random but with a purpose to accentuate features of the face for a better visual end result.

Our model already has a cut that is face framing but the ends are light and wispy.  We want to add definition to her cheekbones and jawline:

  • Comb the hair to its natural fall.
  • Look for that ‘first piece’ of hair that falls along the face – for this model our first ‘piece’ will be cut to accentuate the cheekbone.
  • Pinch that piece of hair with the opposite hand of your cutting hand.
    • HOT TIP: – The amount of hair you select in your ‘pieces’ is up to you – it depends just how much definition you and your client agree upon – the more hair you pick up in your ‘pieces’ the more definition you will achieve.
  • Come into the piece from behind and ‘talk’ the shear (open and close movement) forward toward the cheekbone with the Sam Villa 7” Dry Cutting Shear.
    • NOTE: – This may appear to be blunt once cut, keep in mind the hair is not going to lay on the face, the hair will separate with natural movement with soft ends.
  • Pinch the next ‘piece’ and use the same technique to ‘talk’ the shear forward toward the jawline.

At this point, from the jawline, we getting into longer length and have no facial features to accentuate so we will free hand – visually choose piece by piece – find what pieces you want to define in the rest of the frame and go in and blunt them off.  Blunting the pieces will create a strong frame as opposed to light wispy ends of the frame.

How To Finish This Hairstyle

  • Shake Redken wax blast 10 and spray into your hand.
  • Evenly distribute into both palms.
  • Work into the ends of the face framing layers for definition.
  • Leave the hair framing and hugging the face or use Sam Villa Sleekr Iron to flick the ends of the hair up and out for volume.

Be sure to discuss the technique with your client in the consultation; why the technique will add definition and density.  Compare the cut side frame to the opposite uncut side.  Give the cut side some movement with your hand – she will immediately be able to see the difference and LOVE IT!

This face framing technique is perfect for the client who has a naturally fine hairline and/or for the client who is experiencing thinning around the hairline.  The technique is also great for the client who comes in for a cut that was over layered or over texturized from the last cut.  The pieces you choose to cut will add needed definition to the frame and make the hair look denser.