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The power of a good haircut can change flat fine hair to a bodyful, trendy style. One of the biggest challenges for stylists when cutting fine hair is keeping the ends from losing density, especially at the perimeter near the ears due to the change of direction.
Andrew Carruthers, Director of Education for Sam Villa explains how to properly layer hair to achieve textured, fuller styles with the illusion of density and bounce for your clients with super fine hair.
Prepping the hair before cutting seals the ends and assists with moisture retention, also helping the blades of your scissor to glide smoothly for precision. We suggest a conditioning cutting spray like Redken One United, a lightweight spray with moisturizing properties and pH balancing that can be used from roots to ends. Prepping is a step that should be done on all hair types prior to cutting.
We recommended starting your haircut in the back of the head to focus on where the heaviest part of the haircut will be. This is also where the most hair lives. This will best achieve the goal of this haircut, which is to create the illusion of more density as you move around the head towards the face.
HOT TIP: The use of Sam Villa Artist Series Shears with a 6.25” sharp blade will result in a seamless, less-heavy cut. The precision of these blades is important for cutting while using a diagonal finger angle. This emphasizes shorter hair at the top of the section while maintaining length at the ends. The size of the blade will glide smoothly across the section to ensure an even layering technique.
Tip: Using high elevation will result in a heavy perimeter which we don’t want.
Traveling guides* create over-direction and keep more length at the perimeter as you move around the head. Starting this haircut at the back, the hair will get slightly longer as you get closer to the face. This is especially important to be aware of once you reach behind the ear where the hair tends to be the most sparse at the perimeter.
Without over-directing we risk a common cutting mistake known as a “hole” around the ear-when the length is cut too short.
The traveling guide will remain as you move around the ear yet the elevation will change.
Increasing elevation preserves more density in the perimeter which will eliminate the hair from looking too sparse on the ends.
To continue the cutting technique:
a. You will continue using a traveling guide, and diagonal finger angle mirroring the previously cut sections in the back.
Note: This will create a detached area. The difference between a disconnected haircut and detached haircut is within our mindset. There are reasons and purposes for both perfectly blended haircuts and detached haircuts. It’s important to have the foundations and principles so that you are able to customize haircuts per your clients’ needs.
We purposely designed this as a detached haircut to maintain density and create the illusion of fullness at the ends. By using a traveling guide throughout the cut we ensure length and density.
a. Don’t want layers around the face? Carve out the perimeter around the face and leave out. Dust the ends to meet the desired length in the front.
b. If you do want the layers around the face, continue with the same technique to complete the entire head!
Hot tip: To ensure the layers around the face are cut precisely, stand behind the section and place the teeth of the comb facing you at the root of your section. Slide the comb against the scalp towards you and stop at the end of the section. From there, comb the hair up to vertical, and follow your diagonal finger angle as the previously cut section.
Refining your layering technique and changing your elevation will create the illusion of the hair your clients always dreamt of. Continue watching our videos for tips and tricks to step up your game behind the chair!
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