Discover a simple technique for removing bulk from bangs that have too much weight and density.
WHERE DOES DENSITY LIVE?
Density lives within the section of the fringe. Our natural habit of cutting to remove bulk is to cut the outer surface, where we visually see density. In reality, the triangular section we take to cut bangs has the most hair living within the the middle of the section.
It's important to use specific tools for blending when we want to achieve softness, and avoid hard lines in the hair.
WHICH TOOLS SHOULD WE USE?
Sam Villa Signature Series InvisiBlend Shear is a unique shear developed to create seamless, smooth edges. The shear is specifically designed to push the hair forward, and allow the teeth to cut shorter and longer hairs for a blended result. This gives the ability to remove excess bulk without the concern of seeing lines within your sections. This can occur when using a traditional thinning shear.
WHAT IS THE SUGGESTED SECTIONING AND TECHNIQUE TO USE WHEN REMOVING WEIGHT?
A triangular section is most commonly used when cutting bangs. The point of the triangle being at the center, top of the head, and the two bottom points of the triangle at either side of the front hairline. (Ending at the left and right temples).
Starting at the front hairline of the fringe:
- Use your comb to carve out a 1-inch deep, 3-inch-wide, diagonal back section.
- You will begin 1-inch down from the top of the section on the front hairline.
- Place the tip of your shear in, vertically at the root.
- Close the teeth down onto the root and glide the shear down the section.
- If you’re using a traditional thinning or blending shear, place the shear in at the midshaft versus the root; this will reduce the risk of cutting holes in the hair.
- Skip 1-2-inches to the left, and place your shear in again at the root, close the teeth down and glide down to the ends.
- Continue this technique to complete the first section.
- Carve your next diagonal back section, behind the first:
- 1-inch deep, 3-inches-wide.
- Place the tip of your shear in, vertically. (This time about ½-inch from the scalp).
- Close the teeth down, and glide the shear down to the ends.
- Skip 1-2-inches to the left, place your shear in ½-inch from the root, and close the teeth down.
- Glide down to the ends.
- Continue this technique to complete the second section.
Once you complete the first two sections, comb the fringe in to place to see if you’ve achieved the desired amount of thickness. If you haven’t yet reached the desired amount, continue with the same sectioning and technique!
Hot tip: Once You reach the curve(s) of the head (the parietal ridge and top), place your shear in below the curve within each section, prior to cutting.
This avoids shorter hairs pointing straight up due to the change in direction of hair growth.
Side sweeping bangs tend to require more thinning due to the ends being pushed to one side. Use your judgement on how much weight you’ll need to remove. The great benefit to Sam Villa Signature Series InvisiBlend Shear, you can be confident with thinning as much as needed without the concern of botching your fringe!
If you have reached the desired softness within your fringe after debulking the first two sections, style to complete your clients new look!
When addressing the issues of density and weight, it’s important to be specific with where we remove bulk. Remember, we can always remove more hair but we can’t put it back. Blend with intent!
We hope you feel inspired and confident to cut more bangs! So, the next time your client decides that they want a change, offer a custom cut bangs for a chic, new look!
Recommended Tools for this technique
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Short Cutting Comb
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