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Disconnected Layers | Remove Bulk, Keep Length and Speed Up Blow Drying Time

Sam Villa

Author Sam Villa | Founding Partner of Sam Villa

One problem area that many of our guests with thick, coarse hair face is having too much bulk or weight at the back of the head. Too much hair in this area creates challenges when blow drying & styling hair, not to mention it feels like a village of hair is living back there!

So how do we go about removing the bulk while keeping the length? The answer is simple my friends. Through a simple under layering technique we are able to detach the haircut, remove bulk, create movement and reduce blow drying time! Watch the video and read below to learn how it's done.

Recommended Tools For Success

Creating a Zig Zag Section

  • Separate the hair from the front to back.
  • Using you long cutting comb, comb the hair horizontally across the back of the head.
    • Hot Tip: Ask your client to then tip her head forward for easier combing.
  • With your comb in a vertical position, use the wide teeth of your comb beginning above the top of your client's ear and place the teeth against the head. Make small up and down movements as you move horizontally across the back of the hear - making sure the teeth of the comb are always in contact with the head.
  • Slice a section of the hair right where you want your part and voila - you have a zig zag section. Zig Zag sections are excellent when creating detached layers in order to remove weight. Click here to watch a tutorial on how to create verticle or horizontal zig zag part.
  •  Remember to always check the section above to see if you are removing too little or too much bulk.
  • Continue to create a zig zag section from the back of the head to the opposite side. Isolate the top section using your dry sectioning clips, the silicone part of the Sam Villa clips will prevent marks on their hair while you work.

Creating Detached Under Layers

  • Using your 7” Dry Cutting Shear, take a manageable sectiong at the center back.
  • Elevate that center back section straight up until your hair rests up against the head and then cut a horizontal line.
  • Continue with horizontal sections on the left and right back sections, elevating straight up against the head and cutting a horizontal line.

After you have removed the bulk, now is a great time to take your guest to the shampoo bowl. Why spend time washing and drying when you know that hair will just be removed? My suggestion is to have your consultation with your guest about what you will be doing and why you will be dry cutting first and then taking her to the shampoo bowl. Remember, communication is the key to a successful cut!

Under layering is great trick for removing bulk in order to save the client blow drying time while still keeping the length. Remember, we are working in horizontal sections and elevating the hair straight up from where it lives, so the hair will fall short to long keeping the length and removing the bulk.

If this technique helped you out behind the chair, do us a favor and like & share this post with your fellow hairdresser friends!

Be sure to follow Sam Villa on Facebook & Instagram for daily inspiration and our YouTube channel for FREE education!

If you have any questions about this technique be sure to leave them in the box below.