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Double Identity Side Sweeping Fringe and Chunky Textured Fringe | 2 Ways To Cut Bangs

Lya Navarra

Author Lya Navarra

Side sweeping fringes have been seen on the likes of romantic rebels such as Taylor Swift, Britney Spears and Cameron Diaz, just to name a few. And if you look at images of any one of them you will notice their fringe is not always worn to the same side.


Why? It’s due to the WAY the fringe is cut that allows for ‘Double Identity’! Sam has shown us various techniques to incorporate Double Identity into our cuts for the client to have styling options and this one is all about the fringe – the simple area on the head that can transform a woman’s face – down play a high forehead, conceal crow’s feet, highlight cheekbones – and the best, wait for it – give us a youthful appearance!

In this video we are going to touch on two fringe techniques; double identity, side sweeping fringe and chunky, vandalized fringe – both techniques that need to be up your sleeve as well as images of the styles in your look book/portfolio.

Both techniques are shown with the fringe section isolated into a triangle. The triangle section is important as you need to allow for the hair along the hairline to lie naturally and the tip of the triangle at the top of the head allows for even distribution of the fringe. If you section the fringe area into a rectangle or a square you will have way too much hair, will end up looking heavy and move into side areas that should not be incorporated into a fringe, make sense?

How To Cut a Side Sweeping Fringe With Double Identity

Recommended Tools For Success

  • Reversible Blending Shear – one blunt blade and one blade with teeth
    • TIPS & TRICKS: A reversible blending shear will enable you to release the length resulting in a softer edge instead of cutting with a blunt shear and having to go back to soften the edge
  • A Long Cutting Comb in a contrasting color from the hair to allow for the best visual of what you are cutting – utilizing a comb in the same color of the hair will make the comb blend into the hair


Step-By-Step Side Sweeping Fringe
  • Working with a side sweep from left to right
  • Take the first section on a diagonal forward to the right of the part
  • Read the hair – give the section a little push to see where it bends, the bend is the location for the length
  • Take notice of the direction of Sam’s hand and the backstroke motion with the shear:
    • Hand is positioned diagonally
    • Reversible Blending Shear is diagonal
    • Blunt blade of the shear is facing up and teeth facing down – this positioning will give the hair movement toward the head
  • Open shear, close and push back – Repeat this motion at the same location until all the length is released

 Next section:

  • Part out the next section and pick up the previous section
  • Fold up to view your guide from the previous section
  • Blunt blade of the shear is facing up and teeth facing down – this positioning will give the hair movement toward the head
  • Open shear, close and push back – Repeat this motion at the same location until all the length is released
  • Continue with the last section with the same technique

The blending shear backstroke technique results in very, very soft edges and the diagonal positioning of your hand and the shear creates an edge that is short to long. The edge of the fringe will move beautifully!

Now let's make this fringe have Double Identity! You can give your client the option of wearing the side sweep to the left or to the right! Go to the opposite side of the part - working with the same triangle section for the fringe

  • Apply the same exact technique as the opposite side
  • Note: You will have less hair/length to cut
  • The side-sweep falls beautifully either way!

You have to get the hair to bend in order for it to move from side to side and a blending shear will do the trick by softening the edges – a blunt blade will leave the edges too heavy and the hair will not move due to the blunt weight on ends.

What About Cowlicks

Let’s touch on cowlicks before we get into the next fringe…how do we deal with cowlicks? We do not want to cut the hair in a direction it does not want to go but for fringes as well as nape hairlines we can take the length to it’s bending point – remember, push the hair until you SEE the bend – the bending point is the shortest you can go, otherwise the hair will want to naturally stick out.

Cowlicks at the front hairline are easier than you think to control within the fringe and it is important for you to teach your client how to control them so her fringe looks just a good at home as it did when she left the salon. Tools Required For This Technique:

Your comb is your best friend for this directional blow dry. The pressure of the spine of the comb combined with tension and the heat of your dryer is key to get the hair to move the direction you want it to.

Note: The fringe needs to be soaking wet for the end result to look its best.

Step-By-Step Directional Blow Dry for Fringe with Cowlick:
  • Place a pea size amount (or less depending on the density of the hair) of Redken Align 12 protective smoothing lotion into your palms and emulsify by rubbing your hands together
  • Evenly distribute the product into the fringe
  • Begin with your dryer and attached nozzle behind the spine of the comb
  • Move the comb in a back and forth motion across the forehead throughout the fringe until completely dry
  • Pay close attention to the pressure and tension you apply with the comb right at the hairline where the cowlick is located to ensure your end result is as flat as possible in that area. Follow up with a flat iron if necessary.

Click here to watch the full tutorial on how to blow dry a fringe with cowlicks or erratic growth patterns.

How To Cut a Chunky, Vandalized Fringe

Now for the second fringe technique – the Chunky, Vandalized Edge Fringe! Think – ‘sliced apart’ instead of ‘textured’ as you still need structure for this look!

Recommended Tools For Success


Step-By-Step Chunky Vandalized Fringe:
  • Work with the same triangle section as described in the Side Sweeping Fringe technique.
  • Begin with a horizontal part within the triangle at the hairline (depending on the density of the hair this may be 3 or more sections to complete the fringe)
  • Pick up the section with the wide tooth end of the comb – you need the hair to be spaced out between the teeth
    • You want the spine of the comb to sit against the forehead for stability to brace the section
  • Pick up the reversible blending shear with the blunt blade on the bottom
    • TIPS & TRICKS: When you are working with a blending shear you are influencing the hair to move in a certain direction. With the blunt blade on the bottom facing upward and the tooth blade facing down, the hair will be influenced to move toward the head.
  • Come into the section on a slight angle beginning on the left or the right, and begin to ‘chew’ out large and deliberate pieces – keep the angle the same all the way across the section
    • TIPS & TRICKS: Yes, you WANT it to look ‘vandalized’ – no straight lines unless you want them
  • Now bring down another section of the triangle
    • NOTE - Keep this section separate from the first section – do not pick up the first section or you will cut into it and disturb what you already cut into it
  • Pick up the section with the wide tooth end of the comb
  • Begin cutting in the OPPOSITE direction of the first section, on a slight angle
  • Continue with the same angle all away across the section
    • NOTE – Once you have completed this section and it lies against the first section you will begin to visualize the contrast in the angled edges – chewed out without being overdone!
  • Continue with the remaining section(s) working in the OPPOSITE direction with the angled cuts
  • Go back in with a blunt blade shear to tweak any hair you want to remove if necessary

And there you have it! Two fringe techniques that you can incorporate right now! The Side Sweeping technique will quickly become your go-to technique for your clients who are growing out their fringe – helps them get through and look their very best during that awkward growing out stage. And the Chunky Vandalized Fringe – Change up their long hair by applying this technique – a little more edgy - and you will be very surprised how many clients will be up for that! Key word – YOUTHFUL!

Do you have any questions or comments about these fringe cutting techniques? Leave them in the box below! Click here to learn more about the Sam Villa Reversible Blending Shear -- a must-have tool behind the chair!