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Genderfluid: Short Undercut Hairstyles That Are Adaptable For Men & Women

Geneva Cowen

Author Geneva Cowen | Artistic Director for Sam Villa


gen-der-flu-id (adjective)
: Not conforming to fixed gender roles

In the past, feminine hairstyles have been typically rounder and men’s hairstyles have been leaner.  And today we see a trend that is diverse in applying both options to each gender. We see that there is an opportunity in our creativity to blend the two.

We are currently in new territory where gender roles become more fluid.  Some of our guests are looking for shapes that can be styled ultra feminine or masculine depending on the mood of the day. Take this as an opportunity for creative freedom!

Let's discuss how you create these looks!

Tools of Choice:

Step by Step Haircut:

Back of the Head
  • Using the Sam Villa Signature Series 7" Dry Cutting Shear and Wide Cutting Comb, cut out your disconnection using a scissor over comb technique.  Cut the entire area to the depth of the comb evenly.
  • Using an adjustable clipper with the blade set to the most open position, (position that leaves the hair longest) work from the hairline up towards the parietal.
  • At the top of this section, keep the blade angled away from the head to avoid creating any lines and to blend in with your scissor over comb length.
  • Next, use your clippers with the adjustable blade closed to scoop out the bottom. Work this length about half way up the vertical plane of the side of the head and again rock the blade away at the top of the section to blend.
  • Continue towards the back of the head creating a nice soft curve towards the back of the head with your weight line.
  • Use the Sam Villa Signature Series Razor with Straight Edge Blade to clean up the neckline and blend to the shortest area of your clipper work.
Top and Crown
  • Comb the hair into natural fall.
  • Establish your desired length in the fringe.
  • Beginning in the center of the head take a ½ inch vertical section.
  • Comb each section straight up at 90 degrees.
  • Working in radial partings, connect the crown length to the length in the perimeter and use a deep point cutting technique to create texture and movement. Continue throughout the top and crown area.

Genderfluid short undercut hairstyle for men or women

Color Formulas:

Color - Female:

  • Hair was pre lightened to palest blonde with Redken Blonde Icing Powerlift 20 vol. with Olapex bond multiplied added for strength.
  • Hair was then glazed with Redken Shades EQ 3/4 oz. 09T and 1/4oz 09V equal parts processing solution for 20 minutes.

Women's undercut hairstyle - cut and color formula

Color - Male:

  • Hair was pre lightened to palest blonde with Redken Blonde Icing Powerlift 20 vol. with Olapex bond multiplied added for strength.
  • Hair was then glazed with Redken Shades 1/4 oz. 09T, 1/4 oz. 09V and 1 oz. of Crystal Clear equal parts processing solution for 20 minutes.

Men's undercut hairstyle - cut and color formula

Do not leave behind what you know about both genders and take time in the consultation to find out what your guest is looking for and adapt your approach. Give different options for styling and product recommendations to support your looks.  A guest that has the shape, skill, and resources to look different every day will generate income for your salon business.

The best compliment you can ever get as a stylist is “who does your hair?” Provide your guest with the best education and tools to market you, even if they are just popping into the grocery store with their amazing skin fade – male or female!

Photo Credits:
Design and Color: Geneva Cowen Artistic Director for Sam Villa
Photography: Shalem Mathew
Makeup: Maria Camacho
Wardrobe: Gianna Foltz

What do you think about genderfluid hairstyles? Are you seeing them more in your area? Let us know your thoughts in the box below.

Remember to share your hairstyles with us on Instagram & Facebook. Use #samvilla for a chance to be featured on our social media accounts!

Follow Geneva Cowen, Artistic Director for Sam Villa on Instagram for more inspiration behind the chair!

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