There are basically two types of short mens haircut shapes – square and contour:
- Square cuts have weight on the corners or the round of the head
- Contour cuts follow the head shape the hair is cut to the curvature of the head
Both haircut shapes need a plan:
- Plan out where you need to begin
- Plan out here you need to blend sections together
- Plan out where you need to end
Mastering your skills with a systematic approach will give you an outstanding outcome every time! Today we bring you a classic contoured mens haircut done by Nick Roberson. One of the biggest things about this cut is that it's old school. I've seen a lot of men want to be more dapper and classic to set off today's clothing trends. The classic look blends nicely with modern fashion and adds a brilliant edge to the overall look. Nick Roberson
Nick Roberson is a young, highly talented stylist who graduated from The Salon Professional Academy and works at Studio 703 in St Louis, MO. Nick has gained some pretty mad skills in a short period of time and we want you to check out his classic contoured gentlemen's haircut and the steps to recreate it!
High Contoured Gentlemen's Haircut Step By Step
- Isolate and control hair into a horseshoe parting just above the parietal.
- Establish your dominant parted side and set in your beginning base line using clipper over comb from the hairline to just below the parietal, around the curve of the head then on your opposite side to connect your base line evenly.
- After your base line is established, attach your number one clipper guard and cut just underneath your baseline keeping the blade parallel to the head form. Repeat around the curve of the head then on your opposite side to blend evenly.
- Refine using clipper over comb to blur the weight between your base lines and soften your blend. If using scissor over comb, keep comb moving slowly with quick shears.
- With no guard and your clipper blade set back (open), begin your taper up from the hairline to the occipital bone. Continue to taper until you have reached your desired length working with your clipper blade.
- Transitioning to your top: Using your Sam Villa 7" Dry Cutting Shear, take diagonal sections and cut at a 45 degree angle leaving the longest hair on your dominant parted side (the side you part on). Repeat throughout the top.
- Add a gel or grooming spray and blow dry as desired.
- Once the hair is dry and in finish design shape, refine and blend using clipper over comb as well as blending shear over comb.
- Shape and shave your hard part with your edgers/trimmers. The hardpart should be tailored to the texture and density of your guests hair. Refine with feather/straight razor. Thicker hair should have a wider part and vise versa for fine hair.
- Apply product and comb into shape and/or style as desired.
View the step by step men's haircut below. Be sure to follow Nick on Instagram!
Photography by Chris Bauer
If you have questions or comments about this haircut, leave them in the box below. Check out this video and discover how to create lived in texture using the razor over comb technique.