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Adding Volume to the Crown to Create Balance in a Hairstyle

Lya Navarra

Author Lya Navarra

What is the most frequent statement we hear from our clients? “I want volume in the crown!” So how do we go about establishing just how much volume to create for them? Too little volume and the profile is all face – to much volume and the profile is all hair.

Let’s first discuss how to measure the amount of volume to place in the crown that will be proportioned to the client’s face in a profile for a blow dry:

  • Turn the client to the side, away from the station mirror
  • Place a mirror in the client’s hand so she can see exactly what you are about to show and discuss with her
  • Pull the hair back away from the face
  • Place your index finger on the outer tip of the eyebrow
  • Place your thumb at the hairline directly behind your index finger
  • The space between the outer tip of the eyebrow and the beginning of the hairline directly behind it is the measurement of the amount of volume that will be the most visually pleasing in a profile for the crown area

Cool, huh? The coolest element about this part of the client consultation is that your client gets this big ‘ah ha’ moment with you!  You not only handed the client the mirror to follow you, you also created the opportunity to express how knowledgeable you are as a stylist.

This just scored you massive points as now the client really trusts and respects you!  You just may hear, “wow, no one has ever taken the time to show or even discuss this with me - do whatever you feel will look the best on me!”  Is that music to our ears or what?

Now that you have ‘wowed’ her, here is another tip to earn even more respect with her by simply establishing how long to leave the crown area when cutting:

  • Take out all of your round brushes and lay them on your station
  • Ask your client which brush most closely matches in diameter size to the brush she uses at home to blow her hair dry in the crown area for volume

This is extremely important – why?  Because she is most likely used to using one brush when she goes to blow dry her crown area and you want to make it as easy as possible for her to recreate the look you give her at home.

She wants her hair to look as close as possible to the finish you gave her, everyday, so YOU want to be sure you do not cut the crown too short or leave it too long:

  • Pick up the brush she chose as the one that closely resembles the diameter of the brush she uses at home
  • Pick up a section of the hair in the crown area
  • Wrap the hair around the brush one time, beginning at the crown area
  • The place where the hair is at the end of one rotation of the brush is the measurement of the cut for the client to be comfortable in establishing volume at the crown on her own
  • Any longer and she will fumble with the brush and any shorter she won’t be able to create enough volume

All of this adds value to your client’s appointment.  You want to establish respect, trust and credibility with every client during every appointment. The more knowledge you share with your client the more she will want to come back and refer her friends and family.

Teach them well and in turn you will give them the confidence to succeed at home in between appointments – they become free advertisement for you, as they are able to make your cut and style look good every day!

Click here to view all Sam Villa professional boar bristle & nylon round brushes.

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If you have any questions about this technique be sure to leave them in the box below.