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How To Add Volume in the Crown Without Any Visible Layering

Lya Navarra

Author Lya Navarra

Diamonds are a girl’s best friend right? You bet!

Your guest is going to receive incredible value with this magical technique to bring out volume in the crown area without any visible layering! Diamond sectioning along with the NEW Sam Villa Signature Series InvisiBlend Shear will incorporate a decent amount of layering without losing the length, exactly what your guest is asking for – “I want layers but I don’t want to lose my length, can you achieve this for me?”

Diamond sectioning will enable the hair to tilt back away from the face to create layers in the crown area without going through and layering the entire cut. Now, lets get started!

Tools of Choice

  • Sam Villa Signature Series Long Cutting Comb
    • Why this comb? We want to use the length of the wide teeth for zigzag parting. The parting tooth at the end of the comb is also great for sectioning and glides through the hair effortlessly.
  • Sam Villa Dry Sectioning Clips
    • Why these clips? The silicone band provides the maximum amount of grip without slip…and they don’t leave marks! Ideal for when you need to section hair and want to avoid lines or creases after blow drying or straightening the hair.
  • Sam Villa Signature Series 7" Dry Cutting Shear
    • Why this shear? The power ridges on the outside of the blades give the shear stability, enabling us to get through rigid dry hair and compressed sections without the hair being pushed.
  • Sam Villa Signature Series InvisiBlend Shear
    • Why this shear? The straight blade on the InvisiBlend shear is smooth, not sharp like the straight blade on the Reversible Blending Shear. That being said, when the teeth of the InvisiBlend Shear close onto the straight blade, due to the straight blade not being sharp, the hair is pushed to the side a bit and cut – almost like little arcs and no two hairs are cut the same.  This action results in extremely soft ends.  No straight lines, no demarcations – only lots of little curved lines within the shape.

Sectioning The Base For The Diamond In The Front Area

  • Comb the hair into natural fall and separate front to back just above the ear (repeat on both sides of the head).
  • Establish the area where the top intersects front-to back and place your finger at that spot.
  • Find the area midway between the top of the head and the front hairline.
  • Part diagonally back from your point of reference near the front hairline to just about the parietal ridge – the area where the comb comes off the head.
  • Move to the opposite front area and repeat the process on this side of the head.
  • You will begin to see the front partings taking the shape of a diamond.  We want to focus here on the front instead of moving to the back.
  • HOT TIP: The size of the diamond is determined by the density of the hair – for finer hair, take a smaller diamond; for denser hair, take a larger diamond.

Sectioning The Base For The Diamond In The Back Area

  • Lay the comb down flat on the crown area (front to back). Where the comb comes off the head, this is the point to part back to center-back. Place your index finger here as a guide.
  • Connect the forward section of the diamond to the center-back point then repeat on the opposite side of the head.
  • Once you have completed the base of the diamond have your guest tilt her hair back so you can check for balance and adjust if needed.
  • Next, you'll create a zigzag section within your existing diamond section. (Watch the video to learn an easy way to do this)
  • Why create a zigzag section? The result of the zigzag will be diffused layering that eliminates hard lines.
  • You should now have a zigzag diamond section in the crown area. If you have it, let's move on.

Think, say and do things different!  The entire parting process is guaranteed to spark attention in the salon and more importantly, your guest will definitely want to be involved – they will notice and ask, "Why are you doing that?"  You then tell them the VALUE of the technique and the end result of diffused layering without losing length!

Now check again for balance.  Has the zigzag partings created less or more density in any area?  Easy fix!  Simply go back into any area with the parting tooth to add or take away hair.

Zigzag diamond section in the crown area

Cutting the Diamond Section

  • Isolate the hair that is not in the diamond with your Sam Villa Dry Sectioning Clips.
  • Why clip this hair away?  Isolating this portion of the hair will keep you from picking this hair up while cutting the diamond section.
  • Comb the diamond section straight up from the head at 90 degrees.
  • Establish your cutting point – how short or long do you want to cut the diamond?
  • A good cutting point reference for our model is for the hair to fall right about the occipital.  You decide where you want the layers to fall for the amount of volume you want to create.
  • Once you have established your cutting point, slide your fingers up just above that point, make a slight fist with your thumb, forefinger and middle finger to fan out the section.
  • Come in with your Sam Villa 7” Signature Series Dry Cutting Shear and chunk out the length.
  • Now go in and soften the edge with deep point cutting.
  • Next, pick up the Sam Villa Signature Series InvisiBlend Shear. Open the shear and slide it about 1/3 into the end of the section. Then simply close the shear and slide out.
  • HOT TIP:  You cannot slide another texturizing shear or thinning shear out of the hair this easy as both the straight blade is sharp.  The fact that the straight blade is polished, blunt and does not cut, enables the shear to glide through the hair without pulling.  You would have to take very small sections with other texturizing shears or thinning shears for the shear not to pull the hair.

Add volume in the crown without visible layers

  • Continue to come into the section, close the blades and glide the shear out
  • Once you have released a sufficient amount of hair, release your Sam Villa Dry Sectioning Clips and let your diamond fall

There will be no noticeable layering!  It’s magic, it’s there but you cannot see it until you pinch and move the hair around!  The volume at the crown will be perfect!  Hidden layering, length retained, and one very happy Guest!

Remember, the denser the hair, the larger the diamond and the angle at which you cut the diamond determines the length.  Be creative with the angle you choose to create, this will balance and optimize your guests’ silhouette and profile.

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