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Catering To Curly Hair - The How To's of Cutting, Styling and Maintaining Curls

Sam Villa

Author Sam Villa | Founding Partner of Sam Villa

Clients with curly hair are savvy. Chances are, they have tried every taming, moisturizing and de-frizzing product on the market, and have had more ‘one and done’ salon appointments than they care to admit.

Want to learn the secret to keeping curly hair clients? It’'s all about catering to the curl and gaining trust. Curly hair clients are unique because they are very knowledgeable about their hair, therefore, they have a lot of valuable info to contribute to a consultation. Listen more and talk less. Take time to learn about their curl pattern, how the curls fit together and evaluate shrinkage. The more you understand their hair, the more they will trust you. Follow these tips when working with curly hair:

Cutting Curly Hair

  • Use a wide toothed comb when cutting hair – fine toothed combs stretch hair disturbing the curl pattern and promoting frizz.
  • Concentrate on reducing the overall volume and increasing definition by cutting hair with clean, blunt ends. Curly hair needs weight on the ends for optimal curl, do not use a razor, it thins out the ends and creates frizz.
  • Many stylists cut too many short layers in curly hair creating ‘ledges.’ Assure your client that if layers are cut, they will be long layers with blunt ends to promote definition.
  • Take zig zag sections, for a more disconnected, natural shape.

Watch the video below to see Sam demonstrate these cutting tips.


Styling Curly Hair

  • It'’s important to keep curly hair hydrated to minimize expansion, so always apply a leave-in conditioner. Try Redken Smooth Down Detangler. If hair is fragile and breaks, use Redken Extreme Anti-Snap to fortify and smooth the cuticle.
  • Concentrate on smoothing the cuticle, don’'t rough dry hair with a towel or dry hair with hot air (cold air will close cuticle and reduce frizz).
  • Most curly hair clients are product junkies, so recommend product carefully. Try applying one product to one side of the head and another to the opposite side and collectively make the choice on what works best.
  • Frizz is the #1 complaint from clients with curly hair, applying a generous amount of styling product from the mid shaft to ends will tame fly-aways.
  • Use a finger diffuser – never touch hair while drying, use the diffuser with airflow pointing down to limit the disturbance of the cuticle.
  • Use a shine serum – curly hair is not as shiny straight, use Redken glass 01 smoothing serum for more light reflection and shine.
  • To calm down curl, wrap small section around two fingers and spray with Redken vinyl glam 02 smoothing serum.

Additional Tips for Your Curly Hair Clients

  • Sleep on a silk or satin pillow –as these fabrics do not rough up the cuticle promoting smoother, calmer curls in the am.
  • Apply a leave in product like Redken curl wise 14 curl defining cream (utilizes mango butter to tame thick curls, control volume and reduce frizz) then braid or twist hair and hit the hay. In the morning, curls will be silky smooth.
  • Use a makeup powder brush sprayed with Redken vinyl glam 02 smoothing serum and brush hairline and curls to reduce frizz and add shine.
  • Don'’t shampoo hair everyday - the more you shampoo, the more hair expands, promoting frizz

For more in-depth cutting and styling tips for curly hair, check out Curlicious - Your Guide For Mastering Naturally Curly Hair.

If you have any questions or comments leave them in the box below.

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