Gatsby (Leonardo DiCaprio) sure is a dapper ole sport, not a hair out of place to match his sharp suits. Andrew Carruthers, co-owner of Lunatic Fringe Sugarhouse (Salt Lake City, UT), Sam Villa® Education Director and NAHA Finalist for Mens Hairstyling, has these tips for polished hair to match the definable aesthetic of the 1920s. Suggested Tools:
- Create a horseshoe shaped parting from low recession to low recession (everything below the round of the head). Follow the bottom edge of the round of the head, dropping slightly into the occipital.
- Cut section finger length using vertical sections with no over direction. Keep fingers flat with the surface of the head. Start in the front right corner and work all the way around the head to the front left corner.
- Use a similarly shaped line to part off the middle portion of the haircut. This time, section off everything below the more horizontal surface of the top of the head. Start in the front right corner and over-direct anything in front of the recession back to protect the length in the front.
- Use vertical sections and cut a slightly graduated cutting line using the length from Panel 1 as a guide for the shortest point and working longer towards the top. Continue from here without over-directing until the front left corner. Again, over-direct anything in front of the recession back to preserve length.
- Find the guests natural or preferred part and comb everything into natural fall.
- Using vertical sections, starting from the natural part, elevate the hair straight out 90 degrees from the sides of the head and continue the cutting line created in Panel 2. The line created will be slightly graduated. Anything past the recession should be over-directed back in this panel as well.
I've been working my male clients out of the hard lines on the edges over the years, so I usually leave a softer more natural hairline for a better grow out. Fading in the hairline with Sams Reversible Blending Shear is a great way to create that soft natural look, explains Carruthers. Most hair textures (besides extremely fine) will need weight removed from the top levels of the graduation. The trick is to only take away what is necessary without losing the weight in the graduation. For extremely thick hair, try removing a bit of the upper corner of the graduation to get a softer edge.
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