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How to point cut hair [VIDEO]

Sam Villa

Author Sam Villa | Founding Partner of Sam Villa


We received a question on our Facebook page from Mariana Lopez who asked, "Can you give us some point cutting tips for very coarse, straight hair, and also for curly hair so it doesn't look so frizzy?".

Shear Position Point Cutting Technique

What is the Point Cutting technique

Point cutting allows us to turn an ordinary cut into a look that is full of movement and texture all achieved by the removal of weight and creating seamless layering. Point cutting can be done on any cut, yet the technique needs to be altered for different hair types for the best end result.

The objective of point cutting is not to remove length, it is to soften ends and impart texture to a cut. The opening and closing  action of the professional shear and how deep you approach a section will determine how much hair will be removed. The beauty of this technique is in the rhythm of moving the fanned out sections and keeping your hand with your shear stationary.

How to Point Cut Coarse Straight Hair (broomstick-like)

When hair is coarse and straight you need to make it more pliable. When hair has more weight on the ends, you lose pliability and you must take the weight out.

  • When you want to remove weight, point cut with your shear parallel to the hair.
  • If you come in with your shears at an angle you will notch the hair creating texture but not removing weight.
  • To fan the hair, simply take a section between your index and middle finger with your palm facing toward the head; slide your hand out toward the ends of the hair - leaving a few inches of hair - then just make a fist and like magic...the hair will fan out.
  • When you're point cutting, keep your shear stationary and parallel to the hair and move the fan (or the hair) to remove the weight.
  • Tip: You could slice into this hair type but be aware of the condition on the hair. When you slide the hair you're creating more damage to the cuticle and it could cause the ends to expand and look frizzy.

Point Cutting Technique

How to Point Cut Curly Hair

You should never point cut curly hair! Why? Remember this about curly hair, "the ends need friends." If you point cut naturally curly hair will take the weight away, the hair will expand more and it's going to get frizzy.

  • Instead of point cutting, take your section and elevate away from the head.
  • Pick up your blunt shear and weave into the hair like you would when you're highlighting hair.
  • Now simply close your shear where you want to take the weight away - don't worry about the fact that you're cutting length, it will be disguised by the curls when it springs back to the head and this method will remove unwanted bulk in curly hair.
  • Watch the video below to learn the Weave & Blunt technique for curly hair:

Give these point cutting and weight removal tips a try, we know you'll love them.

Be sure to check out professional dry cutting shears - excellent for all point cutting and dry cutting techniques!