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In part 1 of this razor haircut you will learn how to create textured chaos in shorter hair using a razor with a straight edge, your blending shear and the blow dry as you go technique!
This is a great razor cutting technique to use when you want to remove weight and create movement within the hair that sits below the parietal ridge.
For years now, Sam has been telling us to think, do and say things differently when you're working behind the chair. Let's break some rules, change up our language and open up the dialogue with our salon guests to give them a better experience. We're going to continue to speak and do differently and this video you're about to watch is no different.
Let's begin with the language you use with your guests. I think we can all agree that fashion dictates trends. For a while now, hair has been cut to move toward the face. But if you look at fashion shows and runways you will see fabrics with shorter fronts and longer backs. The same is beginning to happen with hair - so why not talk about this with your guests? Instead of saying words like, "Elle, I'm going to cut your hair to move away from your face." ...change your language to "I'm going to cut your hair so it tilts away from your face." Your client will be engaged with this new word and the focus of the appointment is directed to the cut and why.
The cutting tool of choice for this technique is a razor with a straight edge a very temperamental tool that creates diffused edges. If you hold it too tight you end up taking away too much hair, so think about a light, soft approach when using a razor.
In the video, watch how Sam holds the razor like a pencil to enable him to be light in his cutting he allows the blade to work for him. The comb of choice is a professional long cutting comb in a light color to give contrast between the hair and the comb. By using a contrasting comb color you are able to see what you are capturing in the comb so much better than if the comb was darker. Think light hair/dark comb, dark hair light comb makes perfect sense!
Take notice of the strokes or motion of the razor short strokes for shorter hair longer strokes for longer hair. The shorter your strokes the more weight you can build. This season it's all about rectangle sections and you'll see in the video that Sam is working with rectangle sections instead of horseshoe sections. And notice the horizontal partings in the rectangle sections horizontal partings also build more weight. Also take notice of the entry and exit movement as Sam cuts his sections. He is actually moving his wrist in a circular motion, a rhythm, if you will. The rotating handle of the razor also assists in this motion of rhythm.
As Sam moves through the technique, watch how he works the sections. Each level of the section is dropped after the cut and secured with a clip. Why? To keep that previous section from getting in his way as he does not want to pick up any hair from the previous section. Why? Opposite sections are cut short to long, long to short and if the clip did not keep the previous section out of your way you may pick up hair and recut what was already cut before. What Sam is creating are X patterns that lay on top of each other textured chaos in a controlled fashion!
Now let's discuss changing the pace as we work. Sam teaches us to blow dry as we go to present the visual of what has been cut so far. This enables us to think about where we want to go with the rest of the cut as well as tweak along the way. Once again we are breaking the rules, as we were taught to cut the entire head, blow dry it and then go back and refine the haircut. Instead, use your professional blow dryer with a nozzle and a paddle brush and wrap dry as you go! Then we can go in and take out weight to control the balance and this saves time! Remember, styling product is not a choice, it is a necessity!
Next step after drying the hair comes the tweaking. In this video you will learn how to remove bulk with a blending shear to expose a little more of the ear while keeping the length in tact. If you have not seen the painting with a razor technique, you will be on edge while watching Sam hold the razor as if it were a paint brush light, long strokes a beautiful rhythm in one direction and then opposite direction a very cool way to release weight in the back!