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How To Trim The Neckline To Add Balance & Visual Focus

Lya Navarra

Author Lya Navarra

Probably the most notable feature in a short haircut is the neckline.  It’s all about that neckline, that neckline, that neckline!

Symmetrical growth patterns are easy to shape but what about the more difficult growth patterns? No two necklines are the same and we need to build confidence in order to deal with the challenges.

So, you just created a beautiful haircut and you are faced with finishing the neckline to add balance and visual focus...How do you approach it?  A lot depends on the needs and wants of the guest, the natural texture of the hair and the obvious, the growth pattern of the neckline.

Tools For Success:

  • Sam Villa Signature Series Razor with Straight Blade
    • Why this razor and blade? The Signature Series Razor offers comfort, balance and a swivel design that allows you freedom of movement and precision control. Top quality, Teflon-coated stainless steel blades give you the sharpest, smoothest cut ever! The interchangeable blades feature state-of-the-art stainless steel edge technology with Teflon coating for effortless glide and extreme sharpness. Precision-molded blade guard with silicone for an even smoother cut.
  • Sam Villa Signature Series InvisiBlend Shear
    • Why this shear? The straight blade on the InvisiBlend shear is smooth, not sharp like the straight blade on our Reversible Blending Shear.  That being said, when the teeth of the InvisiBlend Shear close onto the straight blade, due to the straight blade not being sharp, the hair is pushed to the side a bit and cut – almost like little arcs and no two hairs are cut the same.  This action results in extremely soft ends.  No straight lines, no demarcations – only lots of little curved lines within the shape.
  • Sam Villa Signature Series Short Cutting Comb
    • Why this comb? You need a comfortable length with wide teeth at one end to lift the hair at the neckline without much tension.  Ivory comb for darker hair – the contrast will enable you to stay on point and keep track of your guides

Product of Choice

  • Redken Shine Flash 02 Glistening Mist
    • Why this product? We did not want to wet the hair with water and we needed to add some slip to the dry hair at the neckline.  The Vitamin B5 and camelina oil in this product boost hair's natural shine and at the same time act as a great barrier between the razor blade and the skin.  You can use this hair shine spray to achieve a silky feel for all hair types.

Let’s discuss three relevant techniques with our model who has a fairly low neckline and whose hair is in good condition.  The hair was previously cut into a modern shape and the neckline was left uncut and prepped with Redken Shine Flash 02.

1. Razor with Straight Blade

This technique is the easiest to take control of the shape of the neckline.  Simply begin at the perimeter by releasing some of the length with a downward motion to get into the area where there is more density.  You will also be able to release the superfluous hair on the neck at the same time.

2. Detailing with the InvisiBlend Shear

To further detail, we go in and balance out the denser areas in the nape and neckline with the InvisiBlend Shear.  This shear pushes the hair with the teeth onto the blunt blade creating tiny arcs – resulting in no lines of demarcation anywhere!  Begin by inserting the shear into the more dense areas and opening and closing the shear.  The shear releases very minimal hair with each cut – no fear of creating ‘holes’.  Continue to work throughout the nape and neckline until you have achieved the softness and balance you are looking for.

3. Maintain the Length and Collapse the Weight

You can opt to maintain the length of the neckline easily by elevating the nape hair with the Ivory Small Cutting comb.  Using the wide teeth end of the comb, elevate and lift the nape hair up to the cutting point.  Come in with the InvisiBlend Shear and release the hair horizontally across the entire nape area.  When the hair is released you will notice the nape is light and the perimeter line is soft.

The consultation you have with your guest prior to the cut will add value to the end result.  It’s up to you to point out the best technique according guests’ needs and wants.  You can incorporate all these techniques with challenging necklines to achieve a pleasing visual focus.

Check out this video on how to trim and clean up difficult hairlines on your male guests! Watch here.

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