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Men's Hair Cutting Tutorials for Hairdressers and Barbers

Lya Navarra

Author Lya Navarra


    As men’s haircutting continues to play a significant role for a lot of us, it is our responsibility as stylists to expand our skills and stay current. We believe that most men are just as concerned as women about their haircuts and how they want to look these days and we offer these next four video clips to up your game.

    HOW TO CREATE DEEP TEXTURE IN MEN'S SHORT HAIRCUTS

    Want to keep yourself fresh, have a little fun and keep your guests interested in what you are doing? If you agree we would say it is in our best interest to change how we think and speak and change up the techniques we use behind the chair, especially for our male guests.

    As men have just as much diversity to their hair density and texture as women, it is extremely important for us to take ownership of various techniques. The more we learn the more we can speak about imparting different textures into the hair.

    In this video we explore using a Razor with our special Sam Villa Texturizing Razor Blade. The model is a mannequin with dense hair, think of your men who have a similar hair type; thick and dense, and seems like you can keep cutting forever. Yet, when you view this clip, you may also be inclined to apply this technique to your male guests who really want to see and feel a lot of texture to their hair, you know who they are!

    Keep in mind, if we are really looking to create visual texture we need to be more aggressive with our techniques and the tools we are going to use. Don’t be shy! And, don’t be turned off that Andrew is working with a Razor on dry hair – we are going for texture, my friends! If you want more polish to the cuticle, apply the technique on wet hair.

    Change will keep you fresh, keep your guests interested and maybe, just maybe, you both might have some fun along the way!

    HOW TO TRIM MEN'S EYEBROWS

    Value. How to we create value to a men’s service? Simple, apply an eyebrow trim at the end of the service! Just be sure to ask them first, as some men prefer to leave their brows au naturel!

    The Sam Villa Artist Series Detail Comb is best for this technique in a contrasting color to clearly see the fine hair that needs to be cut. David uses a Sam Villa Signature Series 5.5" Swivel Shear to enable more freedom with hand position.

    1. Approach the brow with the fine teeth of the comb
    2. Comb the brow hair upward, 2-3 times to stretch the longer hairs to their fullest
    3. Trim any hair that goes past the outline of the brow
    4. Switch to the wide teeth of the comb and comb downward into the brow
    5. Rotate up slightly to grab excess length in the middle and trim

    This is a quick, simple and very effective technique to trim men's eyebrows and add value to your service!

    USING A HANDLE COMB FOR SCISSOR OVER COMB OR CLIPPER OVER COMB HAIRCUTS

    We want to introduce a very helpful tool to apply to your scissor over comb or clipper over comb haircuts that we think will change things up for you!

    The Comb - one of the most essential tools in a stylist’s kit is also one of the most simple. The Sam Villa Artist Series Handle Comb will sure to become your new go-to comb when performing scissor and clipper over comb techniques. In this clip you will discover how vertical versus horizontal sections will yield very different results.

    The first question you need to ask yourself is whether you want to keep your shape contoured to the head or establish a more solid mechanical line, then choose the angle that supports the result.

    Horizontal Sections
    1. Using a handle comb to cut horizontally will allow for more control over the contour of the head shape because the comb can move up and down in a straight line and it can rotate up and around the head allowing for more contouring options
    2. It’s the same whether using a shear or a clipper, plus, the width of a handle comb is more comfortable and very convenient when working with a clipper because larger sections can be cut with each pass
    Vertical Sections
    1. Cutting vertical sections with a handle comb will yield a more ridged surface area with less ability to contour the head
    2. To add a sense of softness, try inserting the comb vertically, establishing the angle and then point cutting to breakup the lines - it’s actually easier and allows for a more comfortable finger angle than blunt cutting
    3. Using a clipper creates a much more mechanical ridged feel

    With the popularity of short haircuts today for both men and women, take the time to finesse each one by determining your desired end result ahead of time and then approach your sectioning accordingly.

    HOW TO CREATE CONSISTENCY IN MEN'S HAIRCUTS

    Finger placement plays a most important role in staying consistent in men’s cuts, especially at the corners of the head. In order to maintain consistency from one side of the head to the other we must be disciplined to control our finger placement to ensure balance the first time around.

    The width of our fingers creates shape. Think about the fact that the bottom circumference of our fingers, closest to our knuckles, is wider than the circumference at the top of our fingers.

    1. Holding our finger in a vertical position with the top of the fingers facing upward is the most comfortable and ergonomic position to hold the hair
    2. Holding our fingers in a vertical position with the top of the fingers facing downward is uncomfortable and forces us to raise our elbow. Yet, as you move through the curvature of the head you can actually get closer to the head shape.

    Sam Villa Education Director Andrew Carruthers shares the visual so you can clearly recognize how holding hair with your fingers pointed up or down will affect the outcome of a haircut.

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