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Inspired by the elaborate and defined, yet detached and airy shapes of crows and their black feathers with varying reflective tonalities.
Tilted back perimeters with detached pieces, etched chewed fringe and blocks and washes of dark and pastel colors give the collection an air of mystery, befitting of this confident and beautiful bird.
Disconnected geometric cuts were textured with a razor to soften the interiors and create detached pieces and chewed fringe with a floaty feeling. Think of a crow in flight, the shape is very strong, yet there is a lightness and movement to it, says Sam Villa.
Today's texture is loose and it's critical for adding movement and life to modern silhouettes, a razor is ideal for taking weight out and breaking up density quickly... it slices hair at an angle, so the base of the hair strand remains wider than the end, creating softness and movement.
Black feathers were the inspiration for the color pallet. When you look at them, they appear black, however, when the light reflects off of them you can see different hues of purple, blue, gray and teal. With that as inspiration, I designed washes and blends with areas of color concentration to support the haircut shapes, says Geneva Cowen.
Credits: Sam Villa Hair Geneva Cowen - Art Direction/ Hair Color Shalem Mathew Photographer, Mitch Kitter/Assistant Paula J. Dahlberg Makeup Pascal and Jeremie Fashion Stylists George Garcia, Andrew Carruthers, Tina Calzaretta and Mary Urban - Hair Assistants
A wide comb was used to establish a line to etch into this detached, geometric undercut that tilts back. Hair was then blown-dry with Redken Satinwear 02 ultimate blow-dry lotion to help reduce friction and breakage, and then the Sam Villa Sleekr was used with Redken Shine Flash 02 glistening mist to slightly bevel the ends and add a high-gloss shine.
Redken Forceful 23 super strength finishing spray was used for added control.
Depth was added to the new growth with a dark navy blue.
Pastel blue was added to the ends to create a lighter reflection on the ends. Redken Chromatics 1AB Black (the black is a true blue) and clear where used in different concentrations to create the color. Clear is an amazing tool to create a beautiful range of pastels, says Cowen.
The structure of this cut is solid, elaborate and defined, yet the detached veils and pieces give it an airy, floaty quality similar to a crow.
This undercut is upside down the top is shorter than the bottom and the disconnection and back cutting add mystery and double identity to the look.
Redken Satinwear 02 ultimate blow-dry lotion was applied before drying with the professional ionic hair dryer exclusively for Sam Villa and then the Sam Villa Sleekr straightening iron was used with Redken Shine Flash 02 glistening mist to bevel the ends and add glossy shine.
Redken Forceful 23 super strength finishing spray was used for control on set.
Concentrated areas of color were used to create interest.
A color block was created with sea foam to navy to pastel blue and the entire head was a washed version of the color in the block.
Dress: Duy; Corset: House Of Vile
Hair is tilted away from the face reminiscent of a modern day Farah Fawcett. A great look for those who want to keep long hair, yet want more movement and interest.
After drying hair with Redken Satinwear 02 ultimate blow-dry lotion to reduce friction and breakage, the Sam Villa Sleekr flat iron was used with Redken Shine Flash 02 glistening mist to bevel the ends and add glossy shine.
Redken Forceful 23 super strength finishing spray was used on set for control.
Redken Blonde Icing 20V was used to lift hair and then a glaze of Redken Shades EQ ¾ Clear was applied to the foundation.
Redken Chrome High Fusion was used on the mid shaft a favorite gray/silver of Cowens and Redken 01B Shades EQ and ½ Crystal Clear was applied to the ends to create a soft blue.
Dress: Anomal; Corset: House Of Vile
This cut has a tilted back perimeter with detached flyaway pieces with etched, chewed fringe, befitting of a crow.
To collapse the shape, Redken Shine Flash 02 glistening mist was applied instead of water to provide more tact, and the back of a brush was used along with The E-T.C. Light Professional Ionic Hair Dryer exclusively for Sam Villa on high heat to conform the hair flatter to the head.
Areas were disconnected using deep point cutting to take the weight out and Redken Quick Tease 15 hairspray was used on set for control.
Cowen alternated different concentrations of Redken Chromatics 5VV and 10AV created diverse variations of violet concentrations throughout the shape.
Jacket: Marie Saint Pierre; Skirt: Anomal
Theres a strength and mystery to crows that I wanted to portray in the makeup.
So, I did black lips highlighted with reds as a strong facial element to compliment the black lace cutout wardrobe.
I didnt want the eyes to compete with the lips, so I made them grey and smoky and heavily highlighted the cheeks to give a feeling of lightness and fierce deliberateness, like a crow, explains Paula J. Dahlberg, Makeup.