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Weave & Back Cutting Layering Technique

Sam Villa

Author Sam Villa | Founding Partner of Sam Villa

In this video, we're going to share a great layering technique called weave and back cutting.

Tools for success that you'll need for this technique are:

How To:

  • Determine where you want to take out weight or where you might want to create a sense of looseness, or where you choose to create a sense of volume.
    • In this example, we demonstrate on the right side of the crown area.
  • Take and elevate the slice and hold it into your hand, take your guiding blade (the thumb blade is on top & the guide blade is on the bottom) and simply weave your guide blade just as if you were doing a highlight. You determine how much hair you choose to extract.
  • Now, pretend that you are going to back-comb the hair, just as you would with a comb. Instead we are using our wet cutting shear and our thumb to flex and actually cut.
  • When you watch this technique, notice how I am not closing the shear completely, just slightly. You will feel in your lholding hand, the hair become loose. Don’t let that concern you. Just continue with work the technique.
  • You will notice that this technique doesn’t remove a lot of hair; it all depends on how much you weave out.
  • Hot Tip:  Base the thickness of the slice on the density of the hair. The finer the hair, the thicker the slice. The coarser the hair, the finer and the thinner the slice.
  • Hot Tip:  Where you weave determines the degree of shortness. So be aware of that. We recommend coming out to around mid-shaft.
  • Repeat the process: Weave the scissor through and remember to weave just as if you’re doing a highlight, then come through, pinch with your thumb, flex your thumb.
    • Take a look at the scissor, it never closes completely. Simply move through that section until you've completed cutting across the section. And then once again, simply comb through the section and you will see that you release a small amount of weight.

This is a great technique when you want to create visible layers inside one length hair. Try this on your guest when she has one length hair but wants a sense of frothiness or volume in the crown area, but without looking layered. Give this a try, we know you'll love it!

If you have any question or comments please leave them in the box below!