Dry Haircutting: Start with clean, dry straight hair. Section the top and sides from the back.
Allow your comb to be an extension of your hand. Cut the hair through the comb.
Repeat step 2 in the back.
Pro tip: Apply gentle pressure by using the teeth of the comb to hold the hair section in place.
Pro Tip: For better control get eye level to the perimeter by sitting in the Sam Villa Cutting Stool.
Repeat the steps on the opposite side.
Use the "Sam Villa 5.5" Classic Cutting Shear to refine the perimeter with a point cutting technique.
For added softness and movement elevate the hair and point cut into the ends with the Sam Villa 14 Tooth Point Cutting Shear.
TOOLS TO RECREATE THIS LOOK
TOOLS TO RECREATE THIS LOOK
1. Apply Redken’s One United and Iron Shape 11 onto damp hair & blow dry with medium heat & a slow speed using the Sam Villa Vision Dryer & 9 Row Finishing Brush.
Prepping the hair for a dry cut with a leave-in condition helps the hair become more pliable & static-free while cutting & combing.
Cutting – Point Cut Perimeter – Classic Series Shear:
1. Before you begin placing your design lines, examine your client's facial features to determine where you want to draw attention, e.g.: jawline or lips, then establish your perimeter there. Working off a center part take your front left quadrant & cut your entire design line at once with a shallow parallel point cut using the Sam Villa 5.5" Classic Cutting Shear. Using a shorter shear is helpful for creating shorter haircuts.
Don't go wider than a two (2) finger ‘peace sign’ or about two (2) inches" when point-cutting a precise perimeter. This helps to make sure you're not cutting too much hair at once.
2. Continue to blend this perimeter line from the front quadrant into the nape working in small vertical sections, or bevels, cutting with shallow, parallel point cuts.
Watch the direction of the hair's natural fall if it's pushing forward you can mirror that with your point-cutting angle, so you’re continuing to cut parallel to the hair.
When the hair is thicker you can take a deeper point cut to shatter that thickness. If your guest has finer hair create a strong design line for them by taking shallow point cuts.
Use your free hand to stabilize the cutting hand for a super precise perimeter edge.
Cutting – Perimeter – 14 Tooth Point Cutting Shear:
1. To create the same effect as traditional point cutting, but faster, & with less stress on your wrist you can opt for the Sam Villa 14 Tooth Point Cutting Shear. Approach the shear with your comb & shear horizontally & open-and-close the shear moving it slightly back-and-fourth horizontally (like a typewriter) & your result will be a soft, textured perimeter.
You get structure while creating texture when cutting with the Sam Villa 14 Tooth Point Cutting Shear, especially when cutting blondes who may have delicate hair that needs a bit of texture for volume.
Don't add tension with your comb when cutting at natural fall place the comb in horizontally & comb straight down with the wide teeth of the comb for a true natural fall.
Sit at eye level with your perimeter using the Sam Villa Signature Series Cutting Stool to get a better visual on the length you're establishing. This helps with your ergonomics as well so you're not leaning over & causing strain on your body.
Cutting – Layering:
1. Once your perimeter is established take pivoting vertical sections around the head working off the center part with small 1/8"sections in width & elevate straight up to a high 45-degree angle (45 degrees above the horizontal 90) & match your finger angle to that. Use the Sam Villa 14 Tooth Point Cutting Shear & come in horizontally, while you're closing the shear pull the blades out softly.
Make sure you're staying above the parietal ridge so you're just cutting the exterior & not addressing too deep into the interior. This could weaken your strong perimeter if you layer too deep internally.
2. Once your layering is complete finish up the neckline by dusting any hairs away with the Sam Villa Texturizing Razor.
Hold the razor like a pencil to help stabilize it & have a softer touch. Using a guarded blade gives you softer new growth when using this technique, this is less irritable on the neck.