WATCH THE IN-DEPTH
VIDEO TUTORIAL

STEP-BY-STEPS

Start with a center part. Subsection a small triangle section in the fringe. Using a Sam Villa Signature Series Tail Comb create a zigzag part just above and below the parietal ridge. Secure the fringe and hair above the zigzag with a Sam Villa Dry Sectioning Clip.

PRO TIP
Hold your tail comb like a pencil when creating zigzag section will help to create diffused layers & softer lines when establishing your layering.

Create face framing with forward over direction and elevation. Blend the sides to the fringe length while maintaining the length of the hair.

PRO TIP
Cutting with a razor is time-saving in the salon as you’re removing wight while establishing design lines when cutting.

In the center back, stay below the zigzag and establish a guide for the layers. Elevate 45º above the horizontal 90º. Slide cut with a razor to remove interior weight without losing length. All remaining sections will be over directed to the established center back stationary guideline and cut in the same manner.

PRO TIP
Hold your tail comb like a pencil when creating zigzag section will help to create diffused layers & softer lines when establishing your layering.

Secure hair below the zigzag and drop the top section. Choose desired length in the crown by elevating hair straight up. Use soft strokes of the razor to blend the crown to the length of the top zigzag section.

PRO TIP
This technique is called condensed cutting when you’re addressing larger sections at once to cut. Condensed cutting helps to create texture in the hair when taking larger sections at once.

Use a traveling guideline to blend in top sections. This will l marry the layers in the crown to the front and sides. Blend and texturize as needed to release the natural texture of the hair.

PRO TIP
For for finer hairtypes use softer tension when razor cutting to not remove too much length when motion cutting.

Remove length and soften the ends. For maximum natural movement, apply Redken Full Frame Mousse and dry with a Sam Villa Light Professional Ionic Blow Dryer and deep bowl diffuser.

PRO TIP
When you want less texture & weight removal use your wrist when skimming & stroking the hair with the razor. When you want more weight removal get your elbow involved for a stronger motion-cutting technique.

TOOLS TO RECREATE THIS LOOK

Liquid error (sections/pf-e0218962 line 194): Could not find asset snippets/limoniapps-discountninja-body.liquid

TOOLS TO RECREATE THIS LOOK

Signature Series Razor Trio - Sam Villa
Signature Series Razor Trio - Sam Villa
Signature Series Razor Trio - Sam Villa
Signature Series Razor Trio - Sam Villa
Signature Series Razor Trio - Sam Villa
Signature Series Razor Trio - Sam Villa
Signature Series Razor Trio - Sam Villa
Signature Series Razor Trio - Sam Villa

Signature Series Razor Trio

$165.00
Signature Series Razor - Sam Villa
Signature Series Razor - Sam Villa
Signature Series Razor - Sam Villa
Signature Series Razor - Sam Villa
Signature Series Razor - Sam Villa
Signature Series Razor - Sam Villa

Signature Series Razor

$80.00
Signature Series Razor Blade Refill - Sam Villa
Signature Series Razor Blade Refill - Sam Villa
Signature Series Razor Blade Refill - Sam Villa
Signature Series Razor Blade Refill - Sam Villa

Signature Series Razor Blade Refill

$17.00
Signature Series Short Cutting Comb - Sam Villa
Signature Series Short Cutting Comb - Sam Villa
Signature Series Short Cutting Comb - Sam Villa
Signature Series Short Cutting Comb - Sam Villa
Signature Series Short Cutting Comb - Sam Villa
Signature Series Short Cutting Comb - Sam Villa
Signature Series Short Cutting Comb - Sam Villa
Signature Series Short Cutting Comb - Sam Villa

Signature Series Short Cutting Comb

$7.50
Signature Series Tail Comb - Sam Villa
Signature Series Tail Comb - Sam Villa
Signature Series Tail Comb - Sam Villa
Signature Series Tail Comb - Sam Villa
Signature Series Tail Comb - Sam Villa
Signature Series Tail Comb - Sam Villa
Signature Series Tail Comb - Sam Villa
Signature Series Tail Comb - Sam Villa

Signature Series Tail Comb

$7.50
Dry Sectioning Clips - Sam Villa
Dry Sectioning Clips - Sam Villa
Dry Sectioning Clips - Sam Villa
Dry Sectioning Clips - Sam Villa
Dry Sectioning Clips - Sam Villa
Dry Sectioning Clips - Sam Villa
Dry Sectioning Clips - Sam Villa
Dry Sectioning Clips - Sam Villa

Dry Sectioning Clips

$9.00
Pro Light Ionic Blow Dryer - Sam Villa
Pro Light Ionic Blow Dryer
Pro Light Ionic Blow Dryer - Sam Villa
Pro Light Ionic Blow Dryer - Sam Villa
Pro Light Ionic Blow Dryer
Pro Light Ionic Blow Dryer - Sam Villa

Pro Light Ionic Blow Dryer

$225.00
Deep Bowl Diffuser
Deep Bowl Diffuser

Deep Bowl Diffuser

$16.00

Detailed Process

Preparation Work

1. Shampoo and condition with Redken’s Extreme Lengths.

2. Detangle with the Sam Villa Signature Series Paddle Brush & Redken’s One United.

Before you begin cutting you should analyze your guest’s head shape by locating their partial ridge. You can rock the spine of the comb vertically off the side of your guest's head to find this.

To find where the apex of the head rounds into the parietal ridge you can place a comb flat on the top of the head & look to where it rounds.

Sectioning

1. Working off a center part, subsection off a small triangle at the front hairline with the Signature Series Short Cutting Comb to begin establishing your fringe area.

2. Detangle with the Sam Villa Signature Series Paddle Brush & Redken’s One United.

When working with damp hair & you need to remist to add moisture you can spray water onto the comb then distribute the water into the hair via the comb to avoid making your guest uncomfortable with water dripping in their face. This is helpful especially when addressing the fringe area. 

3. Continue your sectioning off the center part on the apex of the head down to the nape.

4. Next take the Signature Series Tail comb in white & create a horizontal zig zag section from the recession following along the parietal ridge in a horseshoe shape around the crown to the other recession on the opposite side of the head.

Hold your tail comb like a pencil when creating zig zag sections. The zig zag sections will help to create diffused layers & softer lines when establishing your layering.

Make sure your zig zag sectioning is on an upward angle around the ear to maintain length so you don't get a hole.

Be mindful of the recession when creating your zig zags to maintain length in sparser areas like this.

Place your Dry Sectioning Clips into the hair with the opening of the clips facing up so gravity is holding the hair into place.

Apply Redken's One United & Oil for All through the mids & ends to add slip to the hair before beginning your razor work. This is super important if your guest has higher texture types. 

Cutting - Fringe & Face Framing

1. Release the fringe area & create a smaller triangle that's about 1/2" in width & lives inside your larger triangle section & begin creating your design lines by establishing your guide with the Signature Series Texturizing Razor's Straight Blade. Elevate your fringe to 90 degrees then over direct the fringe to the opposite side & use smaller strokes to skim the hair & establish your line.

When working with damp hair & you need to remist to add moisture you can spray water onto the comb then distribute the water into the hair via the comb to avoid making your guest uncomfortable with water dripping in their face. This is helpful especially when addressing the fringe area.

2. Drop your larger triangle section & overdirect the hair to the opposite side & take smaller strokes with the Signature Series Texturizing Razor coming in vertically & diagonally to remove weight while establishing your length. Make sure you're cutting from the inside to the out & follow your guide to marry the fringe into a face frame.

3. Drop the face frame sections & hold the hair out at a slight diagonal, then over direct to the center front of your client's face & skim the face frame with the Signature Series Texturizing Razor using small vertical strokes.

Cutting - Layers

1. Establish your guide for layering by taking a vertical section about 1" in width in the center back of the head & elevate your section up 45 degrees above the horizontal 90 (or a HIGH 45/ 145 degrees) & slide cut with your razor horizontally to the floor & cut until you run out of hair & the length drops out. This guideline will remain stationary.

2. Continue layering the back of the head by taking vertical sections & overdirecting the hair to the center back stationary guide & elevate to 45 degrees above the horizontal 90 & slide cut with your razor horizontally.

This technique is called condense cutting when you’re addressing larger sections at once to cut. Condense cutting helps to create texture in the hair when taking larger sections at once.

Make sure to comb both sides of your sections to ensure precision when cutting with a razor to keep control in your cutting.

Over direction to the center back helps to maintain length & weight especially for finer haired guests who want a shag but want to maintain length or thickness

3. Next, drop your zig-zag partings on the top of the head & elevate the hair straight up to 180 degrees & razor cut with the Signature Series Texturizing Razor using soft strokes & holding your razor on a slight angle.

4. Continue layering the top of the head by using a traveling guide & elevating the hair straight up the 180 degrees & softly skim the ends with your razor.

For disconnected cuts like a shag, you can section off the length with the Dry Sectioning Clips to ensure you're not going to remove any more length

5. Release the sections on the sides of the head & elevate the hair straight up to 180 degrees & cut vertically with your razor to marry the layers on the crown of the head to the front sides & repeat on both sides.

6. Marry the front face frame into the length by softly skimming the hair with a channel cutting technique so you're not removing too much length

For finer use softer tension when razor cutting to not remove too much length when motion cutting.

When you want less texture & weight removal use your wrist when skimming & stroking the hair with the razor. When you want more weight removal get your elbow involved for a stronger motion-cutting technique.

Styling

1. Onto damp hair add Redken’s Full Frame & softly scrunch from ends to root. You'll get medium control & tons of hold with this product. 

2. Diffuse the hair on a low speed & high heat. Simply rest the hair into the Deep Bowl Diffuser on the Pro Ionic Light blow dryer and oscillate the hair to encourage the natural curl pattern to come out.

If you want max volume, you can have your client flip their head forward, then back to encourage more lift at the root.

If you want more bend & curl in the hair, place the diffuser into the hair & twist it at the root.