Mastering The Set-To-Dry
Learn How to Create Free-Flowing Volume With Mega Hold
Heads up-- Velcro rollers are back in a BIG way! As the trends toward dry cutting and high-volume finishes continue to grow, it’s time to revisit this 90’s-era staple.
Rollers aren’t a substitute for your blow dryer and heat tools, but they help the hair to cool down in your desired shape. Using Velcro rollers to set the hair creates that perfect smooth, bouncy volume and makes your blowouts last longer.
Read on to discover how this retro cooldown tool can level-up your blowout game:
Setting Up for Success
For this set-to-dry, you will need two sizes of Velcro rollers, a tail comb, a blow dryer and round brush, and the 1.5” Artist Series 2-in-1 Marcel Curling Iron & Wand.
Step #1: Rough dry the hair to 80% dry, then prep with Redken Volume Maximizer. Use your tail comb to create a horizontal parting from ear to ear. Secure the hair behind this parting in a low bun at the nape of the neck.
Step #2: Comb the front section of hair forward over the face and create a middle part.
Step #3: Place a Velcro roller horizontally on the high point of the head, centered over the middle part. Use the tail of your comb to create a vertical subsection, with the length of the roller as the guide. This ensures that the hair will fit neatly onto the roller. Elevate this section vertically, comb through it, and clip it back with a Dry Sectioning Clip.
Step #4: Isolate the hair on either side of the center section using cloth elastics.
Building Volume on the Crown
Step #1: Unclip the center section and elevate it vertically. Create a triangle-shaped subsection in the front area, with the corners of the center section forming two points of the triangle. Use the width of the larger roller as a guide for the third point of the triangle. Secure the hair behind the triangle-shaped subsection with a Dry Sectioning Clip.
Next, enhance the heat by briefly curling the section with the 1.5” Artist Series 2-in-1 Marcel Curling Iron & Wand on the Marcel setting.
Step #3: While the hair is still warm from the heat tools, elevate the curl vertically and place a Velcro roller one rotation down from the tips. Allow the tips of the hair to gently fall around the roller (no tugging!) and lightly twirl the roller down to the roots with very minimal tension. Secure the curl in place with a clip underneath the roller.
PRO TIP: The higher the stem (or base) of the hair is elevated, the more volume you’ll get!
Step #4: Pick up a smaller horizontal subsection behind the triangle subsection, using the width of a smaller Velcro roller as the guide, and repeat Steps #2-3.
Step #5: Mist the curls with Redken Fashion Work 12 to help set the shape. Leave the curls in the rollers to cool fully while you move on to the rest of the hair!
Creating Natural Movement on the Sides
Step #1: Release one of the side sections from the cloth elastic. If needed, switch the roller clips to the other side to give you space to work. Apply Redken Guts 10 mousse to the base of the hair for added control, hydration and bouncy volume.
Step #2: Separate a vertical subsection from the back of the side section, using the width of the smaller roller as a guide. Blow dry this section away from the face with a large thermal round brush.
Step #3: Enhance the heat by briefly curling the subsection away from the face, using the 1.5” Artist Series 2-in-1 Marcel Curling Iron & Wand on the Marcel setting.
Step #4: Elevate the curl to a horizontal 90 degrees and place a small roller one rotation in from the tips. Allow the tips of the hair to gently fall around the roller. Lightly twirl the roller away from the face with very minimal tension until you reach the base of the hair. Secure the curl in place with a clip underneath the roller.
Step #5: Pick up another vertical subsection and repeat Steps #2-4. This time, blow dry, curl and roll the hair towards the face instead of away from the face.
Step #6: Mist the curls with Redken Fashion Work 12 to help set the shape.
Step #7: Repeat Steps #1-6 on the opposite side of the head.
Blow Drying the Back
When creating a voluminous silhouette, it’s important to balance the shape by intentionally placing volume in certain areas while condensing other areas.
If your goal is to create the appearance of fullness on top, you’ll need to reduce the volume in the nape. Skip the rollers and blow dry the back section with the round brush on top of the hair to create a “concave” shape. This makes the hair on the crown and sides look even BIGGER!
Taking Out the Rollers
Step #1: Beginning with one of the side sections, press the edge of your hand against the base of the curl to release the roller. Remove any hair that is stuck underneath or next to the roller. Then gently unroll, catch the curl and enhance the shape with your hand.
Step #2: Repeat Step #1 with the remaining rollers on either side of the head. Then unroll the top rollers, working from back to front.
Finishing the Set-to-Dry
Step #1: Ask your guest to tilt their head back. Apply Redken Fashion Work 12, spraying down with the grain of the hair, to help the blowout last longer.
Step #2: Rake through the curls with your fingers to break up the curl pattern and create a soft, lived-in finish.
Step #3: For even more volume, create lift at the base with the Textur Professional Texturizing Iron. Use your comb to pick up a narrow slice of hair from the crown area (away from the parting). Crimp the roots while lifting the iron up and over in a “rainbow” shaped arc.
Step #4: Brush the hair back over the textured section and admire the extra body!
Getting a Fresh Take on Classic Tools
Sometimes keeping things fresh behind the chair is as simple as using old techniques in a new way! This set-to-dry method delivers today’s natural, lived-in volume with tons of soft movement. It’s faster than using a round brush and blow dryer alone, gives your arm and shoulder a break, and prevents the curls from falling out of shape.
Sam recommends that you educate your guests on how to recreate this look at home and stock Velcro rollers in your salon retail area. These extra touches add tons of value to keep your guests coming back again and again!
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