As men’s haircutting continues to play a significant role for a lot of us, it is our responsibility as stylists to expand our skills and stay current. We believe that most men are just as concerned as women about their haircuts and how they want to look these days and we offer these next four video clips to up your game.
How To Create Deep Texture In Men´s Short Haircuts
Want to keep yourself fresh, have a little fun and keep your guests interested in what you are doing? If you agree we would say it is in our best interest to change how we think and speak and change up the techniques we use behind the chair, especially for our male guests.
As men have just as much diversity to their hair density and texture as women, it is extremely important for us to take ownership of various techniques. The more we learn the more we can speak about imparting different textures into the hair.
In this video we explore using a Razor with our special Sam Villa Texturizing Razor Blade. The model is a mannequin with dense hair, think of your men who have a similar hair type; thick and dense, and seems like you can keep cutting forever. Yet, when you view this clip, you may also be inclined to apply this technique to your male guests who really want to see and feel a lot of texture to their hair, you know who they are!
Keep in mind, if we are really looking to create visual texture we need to be more aggressive with our techniques and the tools we are going to use. Don’t be shy! And, don’t be turned off that Andrew is working with a Razor on dry hair – we are going for texture, my friends! If you want more polish to the cuticle, apply the technique on wet hair.
Change will keep you fresh, keep your guests interested and maybe, just maybe, you both might have some fun along the way!
How To Trim Men´s Eyebrows
Value. How to we create value to a men’s service? Simple, apply an eyebrow trim at the end of the service! Just be sure to ask them first, as some men prefer to leave their brows au naturel!
The Sam Villa Artist Series Detail Comb is best for this technique in a contrasting color to clearly see the fine hair that needs to be cut. David uses a Professional 5.5" Swivel Shear to enable more freedom with hand position.
- Approach the brow with the fine teeth of the comb
- Comb the brow hair upward, 2-3 times to stretch the longer hairs to their fullest
- Trim any hair that goes past the outline of the brow
- Switch to the wide teeth of the comb and comb downward into the brow
- Rotate up slightly to grab excess length in the middle and trim
Understanding details like facial hair transitions can also elevate men’s grooming services. If you want to learn more, knowing about how to fade a beard can create a cleaner connection between haircut, beard, and facial structure for a more polished finished result.
This is a quick, simple and very effective technique that adds value to your service!
Using A Handle Comb For Scissor Over Comb Or Clipper Over Comb Haircuts
We want to introduce a very helpful tool to apply to your scissor over comb or clipper over comb haircuts that we think will change things up for you!
The Comb - one of the most essential tools in a stylist’s kit is also one of the most simple. The Sam Villa Artist Series Handle Comb will sure to become your new go-to comb when performing scissor and clipper over comb techniques. In this clip you will discover how vertical versus horizontal sections will yield very different results.
The first question you need to ask yourself is whether you want to keep your shape contoured to the head or establish a more solid mechanical line, then choose the angle that supports the result.
Horizontal Sections
- Using a handle comb to cut horizontally will allow for more control over the contour of the head shape because the comb can move up and down in a straight line and it can rotate up and around the head allowing for more contouring options
- It’s the same whether using a shear or a clipper, plus, the width of a handle comb is more comfortable and very convenient when working with a clipper because larger sections can be cut with each pass
Vertical Sections
- Cutting vertical sections with a handle comb will yield a more ridged surface area with less ability to contour the head
- To add a sense of softness, try inserting the comb vertically, establishing the angle and then point cutting to breakup the lines - it’s actually easier and allows for a more comfortable finger angle than blunt cutting
- Using a clipper creates a much more mechanical ridged feel
With the popularity of short haircuts for men and women, take the time to finesse each one by determining your desired end result ahead of time and then approach your sectioning accordingly.
How To Create Consistency In Men´s Haircuts
Finger placement plays a most important role in staying consistent in men’s cuts, especially at the corners of the head. In order to maintain consistency from one side of the head to the other we must be disciplined to control our finger placement to ensure balance the first time around.
The width of our fingers creates shape. Think about the fact that the bottom circumference of our fingers, closest to our knuckles, is wider than the circumference at the top of our fingers.
- Holding our finger in a vertical position with the top of the fingers facing upward is the most comfortable and ergonomic position to hold the hair
- Holding our fingers in a vertical position with the top of the fingers facing downward is uncomfortable and forces us to raise our elbow. Yet, as you move through the curvature of the head you can actually get closer to the head shape.
Sam Villa Cultural Ambassador Andrew Carruthers shares the visual so you can clearly recognize how holding hair with your fingers pointed up or down will affect the outcome of a haircut.
FAQ: Men’s Hair Cutting Techniques
What are the most important techniques every stylist should master for men’s haircuts?
Professional stylists benefit most from mastering scissor over comb, clipper over comb, blending, precision sectioning, and controlled weight removal. These foundational skills create consistency across classic and modern men’s shapes.
What is the difference between scissor over comb and clipper over comb?
Scissor over comb provides greater control for soft blending, contouring, and customized transitions. Clipper over comb generally creates stronger, more mechanical shapes and can improve efficiency when removing bulk or establishing structure. Choosing between the two depends on the desired finish and hair density.
Why is sectioning important in men’s haircutting?
Sectioning controls shape distribution, improves consistency, and creates cleaner transitions between lengths. Strategic section placement allows stylists to maintain control around areas such as the parietal ridge, occipital, and crown where head shape changes significantly.
How do stylists create smoother blending in men’s haircuts?
Smooth blending comes from controlling elevation, working with deliberate section patterns, and understanding how weight distribution affects the finished shape. Many stylists refine transitions using point cutting, blending shears, or controlled over-comb techniques to soften visible lines.
What role does finger placement play in men’s haircutting?
Finger placement directly affects balance, consistency, and ergonomics. Small changes in finger angle influence weight distribution, graduation, and shape control, especially around corners and curved areas of the head. Consistent finger positioning helps maintain symmetry from side to side.
How can stylists improve consistency with fades and tapers?
Consistency comes from establishing clear guidelines, controlling section size, and maintaining consistent tool angles throughout the service. Working methodically and preserving visual checkpoints during the haircut helps create cleaner transitions and reduces unnecessary refinement time.
Why are ergonomic techniques important during men’s haircuts?
Men’s haircutting often requires repetitive over-comb work and sustained precision. Ergonomic positioning, efficient tool selection, and controlled body mechanics help reduce fatigue while improving comfort and long-term performance behind the chair.
Are men’s haircut techniques different for different hair densities and textures?
Yes. Density, growth patterns, and texture influence sectioning choices, blending strategies, and weight removal techniques. Adapting techniques rather than following rigid formulas allows stylists to create more customized results across different client needs.
